My husband Eric and I sat on the porch of our little bungalow on the Hana coast of Maui, Hawaii. A sudden squall had blown in and disturbed us from our lazy sunbathing on the beautiful black sand beach below. Strong winds whipped through the palm trees and caused the waves to crash against the coast in a violent frenzy, sending spouts of water shooting up through blowholes in the porous volcanic rock that ringed the beach. This sudden change in the weather captured the mysterious forces of nature that inhabit this part of Hawaii and have given birth to a rich collection of myths and legends.

These tales live on in the dramatic scenery and remnants of ancient Hawaiian culture that can be found in the Hawaiian Islands.

Eric and I planned our trip to Hawaii to celebrate our wedding anniversary. Eric, a former Marine, had been stationed in Hawaii and we had met and fallen in love there. We were married in a small cove that lies beneath Diamond Head on the island of Oahu and had honeymooned on the nearby island of Maui. Our itinerary would retrace those idyllic days.

We flew into Oahu and stayed at the Sheraton hotel in Waikiki. From there we spent two days revisiting popular spots on Oahu that had special significance for us. We drove up the stunning eastern coastline passing the dramatic cliffs that plunge to Makapuu beach and around the northern tip of the Island, stopping briefly to take pictures at Sunset and Waimea beaches, where 20 and 30 foot waves engulf brave surfers in the Hawaiian "winter." We had dinner at Jameson's restaurant in Haleiwa town - an old favorite of ours - which serves some of the freshest and most delicious red snapper in the Islands.

On our second and last day in Oahu, we took a long walking tour from Waikiki to the steep hillsides and dramatic cliffs of Diamond Head. After using the timer on our camera to snap some pictures of ourselves on the spot we were married, we headed back to town to watch the sunset while sipping a tropical drink and listening to the soft steel guitar typical of the local Hawaiian folk musicians.

From Oahu we flew to Maui, rented a car and drove down the Hana highway, a very small two-lane road sandwiched between sheer cliffs and a tropical rain forest that winds its way down the coastline. Eric and I wanted to spend some quiet time in nature, so we had reserved a small bungalow in Waianapanapa Park, which overlooks a stunning black sand beach. No phone, no TV, no maid service. The coastline here is rough and primitive and still retains a strong flavor of ancient Polynesian culture. Ancient paths weave their way through rugged lava cliffs and gentle meadows that contain the carefully preserved burial sites of ancient Hawaiian monarchs.

From our bungalow, we could see the spot where on certain nights of the year the waters that fill a large cave turn red. Local legends claim that this is the blood of a princess and her lover, who were killed in a fit of rage by the princess's jealous husband when he found them hiding together in the cave. The violent change in weather that punctuated the end of our three-day stay here brought to life that ancient tale and heightened the magic and mystery that are still alive in this wild part of Hawaii.

Any trip to Hawaii would not be complete without a few days of pampering in one of the large resort hotels. Eric and I decided to stay at the Kaanapali Beach Hotel along the Kaanapali Coast. This hotel has a distinctly "local" flavor and is a great choice for families. It offers Lei making, hula shows, Aloha Friday Singers, craft making and boasts a nice swimming pool located right off the beach. From there its only a short drive to the former whaling town of Lahaina, which has become a quaint tourist center with an abundance of shopping and some quality entertainment - don't miss the artistic show called Ulalena, which sets local legends to acrobatic dance and original music.

Facing the prospect of leaving the wonderful Hawaiian Islands, the drive back to the airport through the broad sugar cane fields that fill Maui's interior seemed to take forever. The spell of magic and mystery that captured us on the Hana coast was slowly broken. Looking back from the present during these troubled and anxious times, our afternoon on the porch of our primitive little bungalow, watching the wild wind and waters crash against the dramatic black sand beach, feels like a long lost dream. But we know that Hawaii, with its gentle and refreshing climate and culture, will always be there to enthrall us when we return.

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